![]() ![]() AutoZone can also bench test your reg., but since it's only like $15 I'd replace anyway. is bad but to be sure take it out and let them bench test it in the store. crapped out one or more cells in the battery collapsed. I believe by running on the battery after the alt. In the end the battery will still test Bad. Let them use the Duralast Charger for free at Autozone or Trickle charge it yourself. Your regulator should be between ~13.1 - 14.5v and the amperage should be at least 60% of the alternators rated output. Test and requires a full charge to give an acurateresult)Ĭharging system test reads voltage at battery (regulator output) and current supplied (drawn) durring charge cycle. If he proceeds to test it it will read one of 4 things.ģ) Charge and retest (tester did not receive adequate info during The fella should not even test your battery unless it reads 12.5 or higher when not even in use. I'm a shift manager otherwise known as a PSM. Be sure to test the bulb across both terminals of the battery first.So here it is. You can substitute a 12v test light, it obviously wont work as well, but it works. If the load is above 75 milliamps (.075 amps) after the initial surge, then start removing fuses or connections to the positive battery post one-at-a-time until the offending electrical component is identified by the parasitic load dropping to within 75 milliamps (.75 amps). Starting with the highest scale, determine the current load. With car off, no loads (doors closed, hood lite disconnected etc.) Disconnect the neg lead, attach the meter in series between the lead and the neg post. DRIVE EASY WITH THE RIGHT BATTERY Auto Marine Power Sport Free Power Sport, Lawn & Garden, & Marine Battery Charging If we sell it, we can charge it. FREE BATTERY CHARGING Our fast charger can charge most automotive batteries in about 30 minutes. Sounds like you may still have a phantom or parasitic load going on. FREE BATTERY TESTING Battery tests are fast, accurate, and available at every AutoZone in the USA. If its a gel deep cycle battery it is probably OK, they are designed to be recharged afetr full discharge hundreds of times. You cant test the specific gravity of the closed battery, and thats a drawback. Did you happen to see, or did they say? Did they do a load test, or an open circuit voltage test? Both are good indicators that most 'zone' type garages probably wouldnt do. I'm just wondering what the guys at autozone did for the battery test. Is it possible the battery isn't able to hold enough charge but still test ok? Thanks for your input. I'm convinced it's the battery but Autozone won't exchange it unless it tests bad and I may just bite the bullet and get a new one from Costco. The only thing I have left to try is unplugging the stereo amp and not running the stereo and seeing what happens. The only thing that is on when the truck is off is the clock and the light around the ignition key hole. The alternator was replaced last year with OEM and LR and my mechanic both said it was ok and there are no large power draws. I tested it a month ago and that time they had to recharge it to test it and it was ok. They had to completely recharge it just to test it and it tested good. drive from work (didn't turn anything on during the drive). It's a duralast gold so I took it to Autozone after a 30 min. After work was over the car wouldn't start again just not having quite enough juice in the battery to start. It did start ok this morning but I had charged again 8 hours earlier before I went to sleep. I threw a jump starter on it and it started up without hesitation. ![]() I try to start the car the next afternoon and the battery has enough power to strongly release the door locks and the dash lights looked bright, but it just didn't have enough power to start the car. Charged the battery and left it alone the rest of the day. I finally got around to changing the lock cylinder on Wednesday and thought that was it. I stopped charging it before I went to bed because it would lose it by the next morning. Yeah in hindsight I should’ve gone straight to Autozone once it died and got jumped, but I assumed it wasn’t the battery and thought the dealership might figure out if there was something else wrong with the car. It got worse to the point where it would lose just enough charge during work that I'd have to jump it and I was having to constantly re-charge it with a charger I bought. I needed a new ignition cylinder because my old one was broken and wouldn't turn off all the way causing the battery to drain if my D1 wasn't used for a few days. I thought I had my electrical problem figured out. ![]()
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